If you ask for directions to Gertrude’s on White Bay, chances are you’ll be told to, “just look for the big green chair”.    

Truth is, as big and unique as the chair is, it pales in comparison to Gertrude herself, who sadly passed away in 2024. She was an original, in more ways than one – her’s was one of the first bars on White Bay – a larger-than-life personality, fondly remembered by islanders and the many who visited her place over the decades.

Today, Gertrude’s Beach Bar and Grill still proudly occupies its place on the world’s most famous strip of beach bars. It may not be the most famous on the strip (probably its immediate neighbour, the Soggy Dollar) or the fanciest (probably Hendo’s), but it’s an essential stop and one that offers a somewhat more authentic island experience.

It’s a solid bright green and orange structure (rebuilt after Hurricane Irma), fronted by the famous big chair and rows of colour-coordinated beach loungers. There’s a covered area open to the ocean breeze and, a favourite feature of mine, a bar rail overlooking the busy beach.

The vibe is distinctly laid back without the busyness and bustle of some neighbouring establishments, and it tends to attract a friendly mix of ‘regulars’, curious newcomers and locals, with families being welcome. As usual, there are the yachting types and day trippers from Tortola, and even from the USVI (U.S. visitors should remember that it is a separate country and certain entry rules do apply).

Gertrude’s is known for its “pour your own drink” policy, which is exactly what it sounds like. While the bartender is more than happy to skillfully mix you up any number of island cocktails, if you ask for a straight highball – say a dark rum and Coke – that’s what you get. They’ll place a bottle of rum of your choice (in my case Myers’s) and a can of Coke in front of you and leave you to it. Sounds great – and it is – as long as you don’t get carried away.

Thankfully, Gertrude’s is still a family affair with some familiar faces, and its founder’s spirit is very much present, not just in the place itself but also among the customers. While we were there most recently, more than a few people stopped by to reminisce, and one couple presented the bartender (Gertrude’s grandson) with a painting of her to hang in the bar. Just one illustration of how much affection there is for this place.

What will you have?

Beer: The beer is cold and the lineup pretty good for the BVI: Carib, Corona, Modelo, Heineken, Red Stripe, Presidente, Coors Light, Bud Light and Michelob Ultra included.

Rum/Cocktails: Some decent rums, with a particularly good selection of dark rums from across the Caribbean, including Mount Gay, Goslings, Chairman’s Reserve and the BVI’s own Pusser’s. And yes, I did leave some Myers’s for others to enjoy. Cocktails are strong and you can get most island favs, like Mama G’s Rum Punch, a Dark n’ Stormy and their version of a Painkiller, along with the classics. But remember, you can always pour your own…

Food: Food is island-themed, fresh, tasty and filling. As expected, there are plenty of seafood options. The lunch menu during our visit featured fish and shrimp roti, conch fritters, fish nuggets and calamari, along with burgers, wings and similar.

Asides

Gertrude’s doesn’t attract the kind of crowds that its neighbour does. For some, that’s a turn off; for others, an attraction. There are no frills here. What you see is what you get, so it’s good to manage your expectations, especially if you are looking for a trendy spot.

Reflections… 

Full disclosure: our first overnight stay on Jost Van Dyke over two decades ago, was in the basic accommodation offered at Gertrude’s at that time – a bit rough around the edges, but wonderfully welcoming – so I am a bit biased. Gertrude’s is the kind of place that attracts a loyal following. It is an institution on White Bay. No visit is complete without a stop at the big green chair.

IC 2025